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	<title><![CDATA[Videos Tagged with driving line]]></title>
	<link>https://www.gnarpowpow.com/tags/driving-line/</link>
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	<lastBuildDate>Tue 05 May 2026 03:45:10 +0200</lastBuildDate>
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	<title><![CDATA[
		Engine Rebuild for Beginners, Part 2 | Extra Good
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	<link>https://www.gnarpowpow.com/videos/19355/engine-rebuild-for-beginners-part-2-extra-good/</link>
	<description><![CDATA[
		<a href="https://www.gnarpowpow.com/videos/19355/engine-rebuild-for-beginners-part-2-extra-good/"><img src="https://www.gnarpowpow.com/contents/videos_screenshots/19000/19355/320x180/1.jpg" border="0"><br>Continued from Part 1, Ethan & Kristin walk you through the assembly portion of a Small Block Chevy 350 engine rebuild. See the entire reassembly process as they stop along the way with expert & beginner tips. Looking for help with a specific part of engine rebuild or assembly? Jump ahead... 0:00 It’s the holiday special version of Extra Good! Plus, catch up from Part 1 1:07 SBC 350 reassembly and how to insert engine crank and seat the engine caps 4:39 Installing piston into cylinder 14:00 How to set the timing when inserting timing chain 16:59 Final Engine Build reassembly timelapse & wrap-up 18:37 Project F100 Update: Putting the engine in the chassis 21:37 Extra Good Engine Day Recap & bonus drag race follow-up! If you haven’t seen the engine teardown from Part 1, watch now: https://youtu.be/8BMyxRiH7TQ Subscribe to catch each Extra Good episode: https://www.youtube.com/drivingline?sub_confirmation=1 A couple of notes from the teardown & reassembly. This was a quick field teardown and reassembly. As noted in the video, proper engine torque specs and torque sequence MUST be used throughout engine reassembly. Charts are available for SBC 350s or whatever engine project you’ve got in your own garage. Special Tools Used (though not required): ARP Rod Bolt Extensions, aka “engine spikes”: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-910-0005 ARP Tapered Ring Compressors https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-900-0000 Ethan goes into detail about installing pistons in the 4:39 chapter. Including using the tapered ring compressor. These are much easier than the piston ring compressors, however those are more universal whereas the tapered ring compressor must fit the bore size of your specific engine application’s cylinder. So depending what you're working on, either tool can be chosen. Other things to keep in mind when installing cylinders are how to properly index piston rings and the proper orientation or direction that pistons go. This isn’t something you want to get wrong! So watch the video if you have any questions. Kristin even learned some new engine vocabulary in this episode: rod journal, main journal, chamfer and fillet. Also, taking apart an engine is the perfect time for beginners to see for themselves exactly what top dead center and bottom dead center really look like. We use the crank direction to set timing the easy way when inserting the timing gear. Finally, we get to revisit the ’66 Ford F100 project! It’s been a few episodes since their twin I-Beam front suspension work (back-up to that here if you missed it: https://youtu.be/-nXJXdoXi-s). Here, they put in the 351 Cleveland engine they’re using in the truck and go on to discuss when this particular car restoration is slated to complete. We hope you’re enjoying the projects! Comment below and let us know what job you’d like Ethan & Kristin to cover next. As always, thanks for watching! Subscribe & get notified for the next Extra Good episode on Driving Line: https://www.youtube.com/drivingline?sub_confirmation=1 Follow Driving Line on Facebook: https://facebook.com/drivingline Follow Driving Line on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/drivingline/ Follow Kristin on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/greasegirl/ Musicbed SyncID: MB01XAPTCUKWP8C</a>
	]]></description>
	<pubDate>Wed 09 Dec 2020 20:34:01 +0200</pubDate>
	<guid>https://www.gnarpowpow.com/videos/19355/engine-rebuild-for-beginners-part-2-extra-good/</guid>
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<item>
	<title><![CDATA[
		Engine Rebuild for Beginners, Part 1 | Extra Good
	]]></title>
	<link>https://www.gnarpowpow.com/videos/3067/engine-rebuild-for-beginners-part-1-extra-good/</link>
	<description><![CDATA[
		<a href="https://www.gnarpowpow.com/videos/3067/engine-rebuild-for-beginners-part-1-extra-good/"><img src="https://www.gnarpowpow.com/contents/videos_screenshots/3000/3067/320x180/1.jpg" border="0"><br>Never rebuilt an engine before? Walk through the process with Ethan and Kristin as they rebuild a Small Block Chevy 350 engine. Get the full time-lapse of the engine teardown process with lots of Extra Good engine building DIY beginner tips along the way during Part 1. For the SBC 350 rebuild, check out Part 2: https://youtu.be/7qv-wvr4QjU.

Looking for a specific part of an SBC 350 rebuild? Jump ahead...
0:00 Beginner introduction to engine teardown and rebuild
1:32 SBC 350 teardown timelapse breakdown
1:58 engine breakdown begins
3:16 how to remove pushrods when taking apart an engine
4:49 removing engine lifters and heads
6:37 taking apart the bottom end of the engine
8:30 how to remove pistons from block
12:28 how to remove engine crank (and timing chain)
13:57 removal and insertion of camshaft
14:42 engine teardown recap and reassembly description
16:24 why pushrods, lifters and pistons get wear patterns

Thanks for joining us for Extra Good engine day! Let us know if you have any questions in the comments below & subscribe to Driving Line to catch each episode of Extra Good when it's released.
https://www.youtube.com/drivingline?sub_confirmation=1

No special tools are needed to take apart an engine. We used basic hand tools as well as a couple of power tools (which makes it MUCH faster) and ARP Rod Bolt Extensions (like these from Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-910-0005). If you don't want to invest in these &#34;engine spikes,&#34; you can also use a short length of hose that fits snugly on the connecting rod bolts. 

On tools, one suggestion for beginner engine builders looking to invest in their first engine stand: Pay the extra money and get the 2000 lb stand instead of the 1000 lb stand (at least in regards to Harbor Freight engine stands.) The 2000 lb stand has two legs to stabilize it on the ground, versus just one. It's worth the cash in order to not have to worry about it tipping over! Here's the one we used: https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522.html

Also keep in mind that the engine being used for this video is already clean. So, gaskets may not be shown and gasket surfaces don't need to get scraped off and cleaned. Chance are 99.99% that whatever engine you've got sitting in front of you will be a MESS! Don't cut corners... clean your engine project well so it'll go back together nicely and works properly.

Follow along on more of our Extra Good car restoration adventures, as we're currently rebuilding an F100 pickup:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzmFpekl13YentDdOgY4Jbb6PpKzWCW_0

Follow Driving Line on Facebook: https://facebook.com/drivingline
Follow Driving Line on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/drivingline/
Follow Kristin on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/greasegirl/

Let us know what you'd love to see & learn about next, drop a comment!</a>
	]]></description>
	<pubDate>Thu 03 Dec 2020 12:48:13 +0200</pubDate>
	<guid>https://www.gnarpowpow.com/videos/3067/engine-rebuild-for-beginners-part-1-extra-good/</guid>
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